Do you know your “Unique Skin Type”
The day we are born our DNA and genetic makeup is already established. So is our “Intrinsic Skin type”. The definition of “Intrinsic” is “Belonging Naturally” “Essential” “Built in” “Permanent” Intrinsic qualities have to do with its nature. Anything intrinsic comes from within. When establishing a good skin care programme for a client the first step is to establish the clients “Intrinsic” skin type. Contrary to popular belief over the years there are only three.
This may come as a surprise to some people but only when you can identify your “Intrinsic” skin type will you be able to fully understand how your skin behaves and responds to how you treat it. So let’s have a look at each skin type. Diffused Redness: This skin type has a predisposition to have a finer skin texture, thinner skin and redness caused by the presence of little blood capillaries. Localised areas commonly affected are the nose, cheeks and flushing of the neck and throat. The skin may be more reactive and sensitive to certain products and harsh ingredients which will leave the skin in a constant state of distress. Lipid Dry: A lipid dry skin is more often found in conjunction with a fair complexion. It lacks the ability to produce the skins natural oils (Lipids). It can appear dull, rough, parchment like with a matt appearance and lacking suppleness. It can be flaky in odd areas like the forehead or cheeks. Premature aging is very common with this skin type, first signs normally show around the eyes, the mouth and the neck and décolleté areas. Oily/Acne: Typically the result of overactive sebaceous gland, this skin type generally has sheen, may be thicker in texture with visible pores through the T zone. The sebaceous secretions can also be active behind the ears, in front of the ears, the temples, and the back. As expected oily skin typically has a tendency towards congestion, open and closed comedone’s and blemishes due to excess keratinisation (Skin not shedding from the surface) excess oily flow. Extrinsic Skin Conditions Extrinsic Skin condition is associated with lifestyle. The definition of Extrinsic being “Not part of essential nature” “Operating from outside” “Exterior” “Outward” After we identify our “Intrinsic Skin Type” we then look at the “Skin Condition”. This is looking at how we have cared for and treated our skin. What creates the imbalances in the skin is what leads to all sorts of skin problems e.g
Using products that are not suited for your “Intrinsic” skin type
Ingredients in products that are not suitable for your “Intrinsic” skin type
Using harsh cleansers and harsh exfoliaters on your skin
Lifestyle: Diet, supplements, sun protection, hydration, etc these all have a direct effect on how your skin behaves.
Small changes can make a very big impact in your skin. Sometimes it can be as simple as changing your cleanser or the way you remove your cleanser from your skin. It could be the introduction of a serum with the correct active ingredients that could transform the behaviour of your skin. Many of my clients that begin their skin care journey with me are amazed with the results we can achieve with small tweaks to their established skin care routine.
Fighting Product Ingredients
What I find most frustrating is that many of the over the counter products that I have reviewed make breakouts worse or cause more skin problems than the client started out with. I see harsh surfactants (Detergents), overly abrasive scrub particles, as well as alcohol, menthol, peppermint, camphor, eucalyptus, lemon or grapefruit oils. These ingredients are extremely irritating for an already irritated and inflamed skin and are best avoided.
Ingredients that are powerful in fighting Acne are
Best Dr. Schwab Product Picks!
Using a moisturiser does not make your acne worse.
Skin needs protection regardless of how oily your skin is.
Acne is complex and each person is unique. Acne can occur in both men and women, and at any age and is a nightmare to deal with.
LED Blue Light Therapy
Blue LED Light: Blue Light Technology is a non invasive treatment for acne that uses light to kill certain bacteria Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes) on the skin. The P acnes bacteria are responsible for the inflammation in the skin and it is sensitive to Blue Light.
Fighting Acne with Food
What makes Acne Worse?
High levels of “Sugar” are associated with the worst acne…Sweets, Chocolate, table sugar, sugary drinks, fruit juices, energy drinks, sports drinks, Alcohol etc
Highly processed foods e.g fast food, frozen meals, burgers, fried foods, crisps, pastries, sugary breakfast cereals, white bread, meat products e.g bacon, sausages, ham, salami etc cakes and biscuits.
Dairy: Whey protein powders, cheese, milk, yogurt etc
A poor diet does not cause acne however it can have a big influence on sebum production. The above list of foods causes inflammation in the gut. Our gut health influences our hormones and can also impact our central nervous system e.g disorders as in anxiety, depressive disorders etc.
What makes Acne Better?
Firstly you need to eat for optimal blood sugar control. Avoiding blood sugar fluctuations by following a healthy diet is a proven way to help control acne. Best rule of thumb is to eat foods that are as close to nature as possible. Fill your plate with colourful vegetables and fruits.
- Vegetables:broccoli, spinach, kale, peppers, zucchini, cauliflower, carrots, beets, etc.
- Fruit: berries, grapefruit, oranges, apples, cherries, bananas, pears, grapes, peaches, etc.
- Whole grains and starchy vegetables: Sweet potato, quinoa, butternut squash, brown rice, oats, buckwheat, etc.
- Healthy fats: whole eggs, olive oil, avocados, nuts, seeds, nut butters, coconut oil, etc.
- Plant-based dairy alternatives: cashew milk, almond milk, coconut milk, coconut yogurt, etc.
- High-quality protein:salmon, tofu, chicken, turkey, eggs, shellfish, etc.
- Legumes:chickpeas, black beans, lentils, kidney beans, etc.
- Anti-inflammatory herbs and spices:turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, parsley, garlic, ginger, cayenne, etc.
- Unsweetened beverages: water, sparkling water, green tea, hibiscus tea, lemon water, etc.
- Dark chocolate
Take your Supplements
Omega 3 is an important supplement for the skin. The reason being is that our skin cells delicate membrane is made up of omega 3 and we cannot make Omega 3 in our bodies so we need to get it through supplements, our diet and skin care. Omega 3 also plays a vital role in balancing our hormones in our bodies and this again would be very important for achieving a good result with acne treatment. ( Solgar Omega 3 Triple Strength)
Zinc: 6% of all Zinc found in our bodies is in our skin. Zinc Sulphate has been shown to be especially useful for decreasing symptoms of inflammatory acne. Zinc has anti-inflammatory properties and can help with redness and irritation in the skin. It can decrease oil production in the skin and protect against bacterial infection. People with acne were shown to be deficient in Vitamin A, E and Zinc.
Vitamin A: Vitamins A and C work in synergy for healthy skin and their combined in this supplement. Vitamin A is one of the most important nutrients for skin.
Apple Cider Vinegar (With The Mother) is excellent for killing off the bad bacteria in the gut and aiding the growth of the good bacteria. The gut and the skin are very interlinked. It can also controls sugars in the blood and this is particularly important because Sugar is responsible for inflammation and that is what we want to avoid.
My Tip to you
One tablespoon in to a small glass of warm water in the morning first thing. Wait 30min before you eat or drink anything. Last thing at night do the same. Always make sure you dilute it with warm water never be tempted to drink it neat just to get it over with..!
Dark Chocolate is high in antioxidants and its high levels of Vitamin C can reduce Acne inflammation
Harsh Use of Products
Drying out your skin with harsh abrasive skin care products will make your acne worse.
Acne has been associated with low levels of Vit D
Supplements like Omega 3 do not make acne worse. They help balance your hormones which can help calm hormone related breakouts.